México, te quiero!

August, 2007

A spur of the moment decision led me to Mexico. My knowledge of Mexico was limited to the Hispanics I’ve met during my studies in Los Angeles, the numerous Mexican restaurants I’ve dined in, and the negative imagery portrayed on American media. Stories such as people being kidnapped, robbed and killed were associated with Mexico, along with drug trafficking and illegal immigration. But I have become fascinated with the Mexican culture ever since I’ve been exposed to the Mexican neighbourhood’s fiestas and music in LA. Mexico was even more vibrant than I imagined.

I landed in Mexico City late afternoon. After freshening up at the hostel in the Centro Histórico, I was ready to hit the dangerous streets of Mexico City, armed with a pocket knife that my sister had given me. Like one of those silly tourists that I used to point and laugh at, I carried my backpack in front of me and held on to it as if it was a floating device.

But soon I was carried away by the architecture and the atmosphere of the city. The buildings, though mostly tilted and understated, were just as captivating and impressive. I could have spent hours wandering the streets, but my paranoia kicked in so I went back to my hostel. Tomorrow’s itinerary has been set.

The city was quite lively when I got up early the next morning. The zócalo were filled with people arranging flowers and rehearsing. I later found out that it was an Aztec celebration and ceremony. I spent a few hours being mesmerized by the smell of the sage, the sound from the drums and the dancing. At one moment, while the ceremony was going on at one end of the zócalo, a silent protest was on the other, then joined by the daily lowering of the flags with the military. The impressive thing was that it all carried on peacefully.

My next destination was Oaxaca, a city 6 hours away by bus. Oaxaca receives equally as much negative press as Mexico City. During the time I was there, a bomb had exploded at a US department store, as I found out the next day. But the city was just as peaceful as any other day I was there. The zócalo was quite different than the one in Mexico City. Though not as lively, it was equally charming. It was easy to fall in love with this sleepy town.

Compared many times with Oaxaca is San Cristóbal de Las Casas, the heart of Chiapas. They’re both equally charming and relaxed, with similar colorful colonial buildings. San Cristóbal, though smaller than Oaxaca, offers rich culture and history.

Just a few miles from the city of San Cristóbal is a traditional Maya community called San Juan Chamula. The individuality of this village extends from their religion beliefs to their correctional system. Templo de San Juan, the main church, is where you can personally see and feel the unique blends of the Catholic beliefs and architecture from the Spanish conquerors with the still standing ancient Maya customs. You would see statues of familiar biblical characters, and Our lady of Guadalupe, a ‘Mexican version of the Virgin Mary, if you will. Among the fresh pine needles on the floor, you’ll find Mayans chanting prayers and performing rituals that include the burning of candles, slaughtering of chicken and the offering of soda. They believe that the burping is a sign that demons and illnesses had been expelled, one of the many interesting ideas that the Mayan still hold.

Besides having their own culture and language, they also keep their own time zone. I was told by a guide who is of mix Mayan heritage that if a serious crime is committed by a villager, the person would serve a year’s community service, as a policeman!

It is not uncommon to see protests and hear political announcements in the streets of Mexico. I have experienced quite a few of them but they all seem peacefully conducted. From their art and music, you can get a sense of their passionate nature. Perhaps it is the political tension between the US and Mexico that had generated so much negative press about Mexico. All the while I was there, I did not feel especially unsafe than other places I have traveled alone to. I would absolutely jump on the plane to Mexico in a heartbeat when the next opportunity arises!

My next destination was Oaxaca, a city 6 hours away by bus. Oaxaca receives equally as much negative press as Mexico City. During the time I was there, a bomb had exploded at a US department store, as I found out the next day. But the city was just as peaceful as any other day I was there. The zócalo was quite different than the one in Mexico City. Though not as lively, it was equally charming. It was easy to fall in love with this sleepy town.

The overnight bus ride to San Cristabol was exciting to say the least... I was never a big fan of roller coasters but beggers can't be choosers! Adding to the excitement of going at 100 miles an hour through windy mountain roads in the rain. It was as cold as a Russian ice box on the bus. Saying ‘muy frio’ numerous times to the driver seemed to be of no effect.

Just a few miles from the city of San Cristóbal is a traditional Maya community called San Juan Chamula. There are organized tours you can take, but i highly recommend the one which gathers in front of the main church at 9:30am. There are two guides (or more depending on the number of people) who would take you there. One of them, Alex, is actually half Mayan and he speaks the lingo and is very fluent in English. It was very informative and educational. Definitely a must-do!

It is not uncommon to see protests and hear political announcements in the streets of Mexico. I have experienced quite a few of them but they all seem peacefully conducted. From their art and music, you can get a sense of their passionate nature. Perhaps it is the political tension between the US and Mexico that had generated so much negative press about Mexico. All the while I was there, I did not feel especially unsafe than other places I have traveled alone to. I would absolutely jump on the plane to Mexico in a heartbeat when the next opportunity arises!